Italian Fashion Watch

The Finnish textile design company is fighting Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana to protect a trademark on its signature “Unikko” poppy print.

D&G has filed an application at the European Union’s agency for registered trademarks to declare Marimekko’s Unikko trademark invalid, the Finnish company said in a statement on Thursday, July 3.

“Marimekko currently estimates that there are no grounds for Dolce & Gabbana’s application for a declaration of invalidity and that the matter does not affect Marimekko’s operations or the company’s assessment of the outlook for the remainder of 2008,” Marimekko added in the statement.

German court granted injunction

Unikko is a protected trademark in the EU, Norway and the US. Marimekko claims Dolce & Gabbana has been using its floral pattern without permission, and said it had filed suit against the Italian firm in Hamburg earlier this year to block it from using the design.

The district court had granted an injunction on sales and marketing of certain D&G products in Germany.

“Marimekko is considering further measures in the matter,” the company said, adding that it planned to respond to the Dolce & Gabbana application before the deadline on Sept. 25.

The Unikko poppy pattern was designed by Maija Isola in 1964 for Marimekko, but experienced a resurgence recently when it was seen decorating a range of products from bags to shower curtains.

Marimekko designs also hit the high street this year when the Finnish company licensed several of its patterns to retailer H&M for a summer collection.

Italian designer team Dolce & Gabbana kicked off Milan’s fashion week in relaxed style on Saturday, taking inspiration from oriental kimonos to kit out men in silk evening pajamas for next summer.

Asian-style prints of dragons and butterflies decorated robes and shorts in black, white, grey, sepia and ivory for the duo’s signature line. Naomi Campbell modeled one of their designs as part of the spring/summer 2009 menswear collections.

Evening jackets teamed with black trousers also sported the prints, in a collection said to reflect “the relaxed lifestyle of the modern man”.

A variety of light and dark blues, and natural hues from beige to brown, were used for formal striped suits and casual wear, topped on the runway with dark-rimmed glasses.

Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce tucked tight-fitting shirts — often diagonally-striped, with small bow ties or chine jersey shirts with cotton collars and cuffs — into drawstring trousers with a loose leg, or paired suits with bow and skinny ties. Jackets had small shawl lapels, single- or double-breasted.

The designers used crocodile and suede for jackets and for limited edition sneakers that also came in mixed leathers.

Models, some of whom were sent out with double-handled bags, wore python, crocodile, eel or patent leather sandals, as well as slippers in various leathers and colors.

Paris once again became the epicentre of the fashion universe this week as the haute couture shows got underway. Oscar winner Helen Mirren, actress Eva Mendes and Janet Jackson were just some of the big names checking out the glorious creations destined for the wardrobes of an elite handful of extremely wealthy women. And they had chosen a good moment to go along, as this is shaping up to be the busiest haute couture week or several seasons.

An unusually high total of 23 designers are scheduled to take part, including the first Chinese courier to show in Paris.

Firmly in the spotlight on day one, however, was Giorgio Armani, who presented a collection which celebrates his 35 years in the industry.

A-list guests, including the youngest daughter of the Thai crown prince, Princess Siriwannawari Nariratana, watched as the Italian maestro presented a collection which revisited many of his signature silhouettes. The classic trouser suit, for instance, made a return, with elements incorporated into cocktail and eveningwear.

One standout piece reflected by the mirrored runway was of a pair of high-waisted black velvet tuxedo trousers teamed with a fitted cape affair made of strings of pearls. A daringly cut cocktail dress, slashed from bodice to hip, was another highlight.

Across town John Galliano unveiled a fresh collection for Dior. The range, which he describes as “couture in a contemporary way”, featured strong, elegant shapes which placed emphasis firmly on aesthetics.

Gucci will broadcast live on its Web site its 2009 cruise runway show at Villa Aurelia in Rome next week, as part of the 70th anniversary celebrations of its store in the Italian capital. Unlike a previous live Webcast of Gucci’s cruise show in 2006 - which could only be accessed by password by select fashion editors, journalists and retailers in Europe and Asia - members of the public also will be able to view the July 8 show in real time on gucci.com from 8 p.m. local time.

Gucci spokesmodels Claire Danes and James Franco, and Danes’ actor boyfriend Hugh Dancy are among those penciled in to attend the event, which is rumored to include a performance by British electronic group Goldfrapp.